Anyone want some Gum?

March 4,2010 Thursday Road trip USA

         Where did Wednesday go?  Hwy 58 west became a rattlesnake in an electric chair.  Twisting turning climbing and falling, the 90 miles or so between Bakerfield and San Luis Obispo looked much straighter on the map.  Though it cost us an extra 2 hours and some white knuckling, we made the coast intact, a little late for sunset.

San Luis Obispo is charming town.  The people we met were friendly and intelligent, almost like we weren’t in the USA.  The town offers a variety of restaurants, cafes and art galleries. If only we had more time and money.  Oh notable exception to an otherwise cultural town is “Bubblegum Alley” (see photo).  A narrow heebie-jeebie alley, absolutely covered in gum both sides, a teacher’s worst nightmare. 

After a quick exploration and a good breakfast we headed north on the slow coastal hwy. #1.  More of the same rolling and heaving roads, except now, we have a majestic view of the ocean out the left window.   Unfortunately we were in the middle of a tremendous rainstorm, so powerful at one point we had to pull over.  The ground was flooded; it looked as if we were in a river.  I got a bit of vertigo, like when one stands knee deep in the surf.  We happened to pull out at a beach where Elephant Seals where, I was going to say sunning themselves, but more to the point, they were taking a shower.  Big silly looking beasts, had to be 12’ long and 700Lbs.  I think they might have some sort of complex, as they were quite aloof.  They’re plus size and have big noses. The cute Harbor seals up the beach probably made up fun of them so they put up a wall to hide their shame. 

Found ourselves too tired and too late in Bodego Bay California, the town where Hitchcock filmed “ The Birds”.  No motel to be found but a nice State park, Doran Park, with a bay on one side and crashing waves on the other.  Seals barking in the blackness, the repetitive drone of the foghorn, and the reassuring pulse of the surf behind us.  No need for a tent, we’ll just rolled the seats back, goodnight. 

It’s difficult to describe the simple pleasure of waking up with the ocean.  Sea birds squawking, a dog barking at the air with the pleasure of running with his master, streams of diffused purple and yellow light peaking over the fog shrouded hills in the distance, cold wet salted air clinging to your face lightly filling your nose.  The sea shocking and tickling your feet as you get too close to the waves. We were uncomfortable and stiff from our sleep; step out of the truck and a 10-minute walk on the beach erased any trace of discomfort.

Continued north, must find coffee, it’s 7am and nothing's opening in this town until the fisherman return with their catch.  More winding coastal hwy. Duncan’s Cove is little piece of beach forming a ‘w’ of sand, towering half moon craggy cliffs surround it.  Steep winding steps are carved into earth depositing you on to an isolated beach, turquoise surf crashes, spray exploding into the sky as waves batter the stoic stone towers which adorn the coast.  If one was daring you could swim here.  The fog from the rolling green pasture above flows like a water fall into the sea, escaping the rising heat of the sun. I think it’s the ghost of some mythical sea creature retreating back to the dark depth until the moon rises again when it will return to land and hunt for runaway children and drunken sailors.

  

   

  We traveled to  "The Avenue of Giants” you may recognize it as the Forest Moon of Endor (Return of the Jedi) Red Cedars wider than the length of my truck.  I thought Graham would love to play paintball there, but in a ghillie suit a tourist might mistake him for an Ewoke.  Off course we did the kitsch thing and drove thru the giant 2900-year-old 21’diameter “Chandelier” living Cedar in Leggett’s CA.  With the mirrors folded in I had 1/2” to spare, all most.  We’ll be in Oregon by sunset but at this pace there is no way we’ll be back Friday. Later.